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Shein is stitching up a blockbuster IPO, but a fast-fashion slowdown could unravel the plan

Snacks / Monday, February 27, 2023
Hit refresh for a Gen Z style overload (Jakub Porzycki//Getty Images)
Hit refresh for a Gen Z style overload (Jakub Porzycki//Getty Images)

Insta-worthy fit… for less than $10. After years of explosive growth, ultra-fast-fashion titan Shein is laying out lofty sales goals in preparation for a potential IPO this year. Shein became America’s largest fast-fashion brand thanks to its online offering of endless trendy clothes at super-low prices (think: 6K new styles listed each day). Now Shein could become the largest Chinese company ever to list in the US — its #1 market.

  • New fit: In an investor presentation last week, Shein said it was aiming to double its annual sales to nearly $60B by 2025. FYI: that’s more than H&M and Zara’s yearly sales combined.
  • Loose thread: Analysts say Shein’s goal could be a stretch, since it would need to get more repeat customers and sell pricier pieces (think: $30 blouse vs. $3 tank).

From A to Gen Z… Shein became a go-to for young adults thanks to viral TikTok hauls and influencer endorsements. During the pandemic, its valuation soared from $10B to $100B in two years (but recently dropped to $65B). The novelty of endless cheap clothing scrolling is starting to wear off. Shein’s sales have fallen for six out of the past seven months, and last year it posted its first annual loss since the pandemic.

  • Interest down: Online searches for Shein and other fast-fashion faves like Pretty Little Thing and Fashion Nova have tumbled since last fall.
  • Competition up: This month Shein’s China-owned rival, Temu, became the most downloaded app in the US (topping Walmart and Amazon) after its Super Bowl ad.

Cheap is easy to sell, but easier to unravel… Gen Z is more open to embracing new brands than other generations, but keeping its attention is hard. Plus, young shoppers are increasingly concerned about the environmental effects of their purchases. That could be bad news for unsustainable fast-fashion brands like Shein, which has been in hot water for contributing to millions of tons of carbon emissions — and has received scrutiny for labor-law violations.

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