Business
Plaid

Burberry braces for a profit hit after missing the mark with shoppers and seeing its rivals thrive

Nia Warfield / Tuesday, July 16, 2024
(Sherwood-Burberry)
(Sherwood-Burberry)

Burbear marketBurberry shares sank 16% yesterday after the luxury British fashion house said its CEO would immediately step down. The surprise C-suite shake-up comes as demand for Burberry trenches and plaid purses sagged: the brand’s sales fell 22% in Q1 and profit has shrunk by 40% over the past two years. Yesterday, Burberry scrapped its dividend and gave a gloomy profit warning, saying it expects an operating loss for the first half of the year.

  • Plaid out: Burberry’s recent collections have missed the mark with shoppers (partly because of their high prices). Now it’s reportedly planning to cut hundreds of jobs.

  • Newberry: To recoup sales, the brand plans to target higher-end shoppers with more everyday luxury items (like: $70 plaid scrunchies) and a revamped website.

Feelin’ fancy… Even as the postpandemic luxury boom cools, some designers have managed to stay hot. Chanel’s sales grew 16% last year to nearly $20B, outpacing luxury’s overall sales growth of 4%. Louis Vuitton and Christion Dior parent LVMH saw a record $94B in annual revenue. Younger generations have become big luxury buyers, with millennials and Gen Z expected to make up over 75% of the market by 2030. Designers have tailored their marketing to younger generations by hiring Gen Z-fave stars (like Zendaya, Hailey Bieber, and Sabrina Carpenter) and highlighting sustainability efforts (think: Gucci going carbon-neutral).

  • Tabby town: Tapestry’s Coach did an upscale rebrand and partnered with celeb ambassadors like Lil Nas X and Camila Mendes. After years of sales declines, it’s become a hit with younger shoppers. In May, half of its new 1.2M North American customers were Gen Z and millennials.

You can’t always lean on legacy… As fashion trends shift quickly in the age of TikTok, OG designers are learning their name alone won’t open wallets. With more folks turning to social media for shopping inspo, designers are working with influencers and creating social content to appeal to younger generations. Burberry has the name, but its performance suggests it hasn’t achieved that cultural cool factor.

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