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American fashion brand store Dickies in Hong Kong...
(Budrul Chukrut/Getty Images)

VF Corp. is shedding its century-old workwear icon, Dickies, after years of struggle

The brand’s sales have been going backward for three straight years.

Hyunsoo Rim

Apparel giant VF Corp., the owner of The North Face, Vans, and Timberland, is offloading its largest workwear brand, Dickies, to Bluestar Alliance for $600 million — ending its ownership of the 103-year-old label it acquired for $820 million in 2017.

Losing more than one-quarter of its investment in just seven years shows how the brand has fared — and cutting it loose is just the latest step in VF’s turnaround plan, launched in 2023 to cut costs, reduce debt, and reignite growth. The company has already trimmed a string of underperformers, including nine workwear brands in 2020 and Supreme in 2024.

In fiscal 2025, VF pulled in $9.5 billion in revenue, with Dickies contributing just $542 million, or about 6%. More than 80% of the company's sales came from the “big three”: The North Face (39%), Vans (25%), and Timberland (17%).

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Despite its small size, though, Dickies has remained a persistent drag on the company, posting double-digit sales declines both globally and in the US over the past three years. Analysts expect unloading the brand won’t hit profits much, but will help VF reduce its debt load by a meaningful amount.

Founded in 1922, Dickies made its name in uniforms and affordable workwear before later gaining traction in skateboarding and street culture. Its new owner, Bluestar Alliance, has been expanding its streetwear portfolio in recent years, acquiring brands like Scotch & Soda, Off-White, and Palm Angels.

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